more information soon, so here are a few photos for starters...

Above: Seen after midnight from my 48th floor room at the Park Hyatt are two DongFeng 31A intercontinental ballistic missile TELs (ICBM transporter-erector-launchers) seen rehearsing in preparation for the October 1, 2009 military parade. The national day display will be the largest of its kind in China's history and will coincide with the 60th anniversary of the communist revolution. The DF-31A is a road-mobile, three-stage, solid-propellant ICBM capable of reaching most of the planet except South America and parts of the South Pacific and Antarctica. The missile also contains a new generation of penetration aids, including decoys and active electronic countermeasures and contains enhanced plume supression technology.

more pictures and information soon...

Beijing: A City on the Rise remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Here are a few photos, but many more details will follow. Check back soon!

Pyongyang

Pyongyang is the capital of North Korea, located on the Taedong River, with over 3 million inhabitants. The city was split from the South P'yŏngan province in 1946. It is administered as a directly-governed city. The capital has been completely redesigned since the Korean War (1950–1953), where most of the city was destroyed by aerial bombing. It has very wide avenues, imposing monuments, and monolithic buildings but very little traffic and almost no Western-style commercial activity. The tallest structure in the city is the uncompleted 330-meter (1,083 ft) Ryugyŏng Hotel. This hotel has 105 floors, and was planned to be topped by several revolving restaurants. After many delays, construction has again picked up this year for a tentative completion in 2012.

Above: Pyongyang airport is a very basic facility, and two weeks it ago hosted former U.S. President Clinton and his delegation who'd arrived to facilitate the release of two American journalists.

Above: The skyline of Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea.

Some notable landmarks in Pyongyang include the Kumsusan Memorial Palace, the Arch of Triumph (heavily inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris but of a larger size), the reputed birthplace of Kim Il-sung at Mangyongdae Hill, Juche Tower, Pyongyang TV Tower, and two of the world's largest stadiums (Kim Il Sung Stadium and Rungrado May Day Stadium), and the Arch of Reunification over the multi-laned Reunification Highway that stretches from Pyongyang to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).

Above: The building of the DPRK People's Party in the center of Pyongyang.

Above: The Kumsusan Memorial Palace, sometimes referred to as the Kim Il-sung mausoleum, where the body of the nation's founder lies in state since his death in 1994 (North Korea is among four nations who have embalmed the corpses of their founding leaders. The others are Lenin, Mao Zedong, and Ho Chi Minh).

Above: The Yanggakdo International Hotel where I stayed on the 36th floor, with great views of the city.

Above: Pyongyang by night (seen from my hotel room).

Above: A North Korean Air Force MiG-17 fighter-bomber from the Korean War (1950-53) at the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum in Pyongyang.

Above: A military guide points to a huge patriotic mural in the lobby of the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum.

Above: U.S. Army tanks, along with destroyed or captured aircraft and weapons, left over from the Korean War are also on display at the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum.

Above and below: I attended the Mass Games in the Rungnado May Day Stadium, built as a multipurpose facility in 1989. The Mass Games are seasonal performances by thousands of trained participants that combine performing arts, gymnastics, choreography with strong patriotic and native cultural themes. I found interesting the performance by mini-skirted military women with swords and knee-high army boots.

Above: The USS Pueblo is on display in Pyongyangs. The vessel a Banner-class technical research ship (U.S. Navy intelligence) which was boarded and captured by the DPRK military on January 23, 1968. Evidence appears to favor the DPRK account that the ship was operating intermittently in its territorial waters, although the U.S. has retracted its apology and written admission, which were made in order to facilitate the release of the crew. The North Korean government released the 82 remaining crew members after eleven months in captivity. For more information on the USS Pueblo incident, click here.

Above: A DPRK sailor guards the dock where the USS Pueblo is anchored.

Above: Heading south of Pyongyang is the Arch of Reunification which spans over the Reunification Highway. Only cars (and there are very few in the country) are allowed to pass under the arch, while trucks pass around it. The Reunification Highway has about four military checkpoints along the way, and at three locations the roadway can serve as a reserve military airstrip (each about a 2000 meter stretch).

Above: The deserted highways of North Korea (you'll never get run over!) heading south toward Kaesong.

Kaesong, Panmunjom and the Demilitarized Zone

Kaesŏng is a city in North Hwanghae Province, southern North Korea (DPRK), and the capital of Korea during the Koryo Dynasty. The city is near Kaesŏng Industrial Region and it contains the remains of the Manwoldae palace. It was formally named Songdo while it was the ancient capital of Koryo and is home to the Koryo Museum on the grounds of the ancient university. The city prospered as a trade center and is known for producing Korean ginseng. The city is close to the Demilitarized Zone that divides North and South Korea. When Korea was partitioned at the 38th parallel after World War Two, Kaesong was on the southern side of the line (within the Republic of Korea), but this changed after the armistice at the end of the Korean War, thus making Kaesong part of North Korea.

Above: End of a workday in downtown Kaesong, North Korea.

Above: The Koryo Museum in Kaesong.

Above: Near Kaesong are tombs from an ancient dynasty.

Above: barbed wire, electrical fences and mines help separate the border near the Demilitarized Zone.

Above: Visiting Panmunjom in the DMZ in the company of a Lieutenant Colonel of the Korean People's Army. The buildings in the background are South Korean/U.S. observation posts across the border.

Above and two pics below: North Korean soldiers guarding their side of the border zone at Panmunjom (notice in pictures below -- the U.S. serviceman taking pictures of me and my group near the glass doors in the background).

---- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) ----Hotels: Yonggakdo International Hotel**** (7); Kaesong Traditional Hotel*** (6)
Restaurants: several restaurants outside hotel (names unknown)
Bars/Night Clubs: only in the hotels

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Exploring North Korea remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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You can feel the tension in the streets, many of them under the watchful eyes of military and security personnel, who ironically follow orders that will ultimately work against their own economic and social interests, and those of the millions of poor in this Central American nation. From heavily armed guards around the Presidential Palace, to soldiers patrolling the areas around the Congress, to riot police sweating in the heat in open squares, the city's political and military infrastructure is only pretending to function. Politically noxious graffiti stains the walls of churches, entrances to hospitals and government buildings. Banners condemning the coup-plotters lay abundant on streets. The working class simmers. The capital is tense, and its more evident than even locals wish to admit. Even in the upscale malls and in the plush neighborhoods like Las Lomas, you hear the whispers of fear and disharmony. And that's why I've chosen to come here, to see first hand what a political earthquake in a tiny country can do. It is not only a political theme central to my next novel, but I am fascinated by how the circumstances are playing out -- as if history has been wiped clean, as if this new leadership has shut its mind to a tainted past as it blindly thirsts for a return to center-right policies.

Above: Chatting with soldiers overlooking a ceremony at the Presidential Palace.

Above: The Presidential Palace.

Above: Guarded gates of the Presidential Palace.

Above: Army and Special Forces trucks behind the Presidential Palace.

Above: I attended a demonstration in the central square in the old quarter of the capital.

Above: The Congress building in the old town.

Above and below: Expressions of anger at the coup leaders.

Above: The old part of the city and the national stadium.

More comments and pictures soon...

---- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) ----
Hotels: Intercontinental Tegucigalpa***** (9)
Restaurants: Factory (8.5), more info soon...
Bars/Night Clubs: more info soon...

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Honduras: In the Eye of a Coup d'Etat remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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About this Blog remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Dubrovnik's Present Beauty and Troubled Past remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Northern Italy Offers Perfect Scenes for Novels remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: A sporty police car in Lugano, Switzerland.

Searching for Intrigue in the Swiss Alps remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: Hardened east outer entrance of the underground shelter.

The former military facility is best known for its 22,000 square meter hardened aircraft shelter (HAS), built in the early 1950s to protect combat aircraft from the Göta Wing (F 9) of the Royal Swedish Air Force. An 8,000 square meter shelter is also at the base, though the larger one is currently open to tours by the Aeroseum Foundation. The Swedish Defence Ministry declassified the base in 1999 and in 2008, the Aeroseum became part of the national historical preservation network of Swedish Military Heritage (For a diagram of the HAS, click here; for a Map/Satellite image, click here or here).

The F 9 Säve fighter wing was commissioned in 1940 and the first rock shelter at was completed in 1942. This is among the world's oldest shelter of its kind (Switzerland and Italy developed these a few years earlier) and was initially used to protect Italian-built fighter Fiat CR 42 biplanes, among other aircraft. At the height of the Cold War in the 1950s, the base was greatly expanded with new, deeper and better protected tunnels, which were used for over ten years to house the SAAB J 29 "Tunnan" combat jets. The wing was decommissioned in 1969.

Above: An aged JA 35 Draken fighter bomber greets visitors at the entrance to the once secret aircraft bunker.

Above and below: Hardened main tunnel entrance with 24-inch thick concrete sliding doors.

Above: I'm standing next to a Saab JA 37 Viggen, a Swedish fighter plane that was ahead of its time in the 1970s/80s. Its double delta configuration is similar to several of today's state-of-the-art fighter aircraft such as the Eurofighter Typhoon, Rafale and its Swedish Air Force successor, the Gripen.

Above: A Saab JA 35 Draken (foreground) and a Saab JA 37 Viggen (background).

Above and below: Back end of the Saab JA 37 Viggen. The Viggen was powered by a single Volvo RM8 turbofan, which was essentially a licence-built version of the Pratt & Whitney JT8D engine, except that the Viggen engine included an afterburner and a thrust-reverser. The thrust-reverser gave the Viggen near-STOL capabilities, allowing the aircraft to easily handle landing and takeoff on short runways and highways (under 500 meters or 1600 feet). For more information on the Viggen, click here.

Above: The Saab 35 Draken (meaning "dragon") is a second generation supersonic interceptor with a distinctive double delta wing. The fighter aircraft served in the Swedish Air Force (Flygvapnet) between 1959 and 1974. The Draken was built to replace the Saab J 29 Tunnan and, later, the fighter variant (J 32B) of the Saab 32 Lansen. The indigenous J 35 was an effective supersonic Cold War fighter plane. A total of about 640 Drakens were built. Export customers included Denmark and Finland. In 1985, the Austrian Air Force purchased 24 J 35D s reconditioned by Saab. It was retired from Swedish services in 1999. Today, the U.S. Navy and the Airborne Tactical Advantage Company (ATAC) use retired Drakens for pilot training. For more information on the Draken, click here.

Above: The west end of the HAS has a rotating platform to facilitate aircraft maneuvering.

Above: Inside the cockpit of the JA 37 Viggen.

Above: A green colored Saab J 35 Draken.

Above: In the cockpit of a J 35 Draken.

Above: In the event of a fire or explosion, these fire resistant curtains were designed to fall from various tunnel section dividers to reduce damage and the speed of smoke buildup.

Above and below: A Saab 32E Lansen is a two-seater attack aircraft that served the Swedish Air Force (Flygvapnet) between 1955 to 1978. The aircraft was used in multiple roles, including as a fighter, reconnaissance, electronic warfare and even as a target-tug aircraft. Over 400 of the aircraft were built.

Above ang below: The command center in the HAS, which did not include radar monitors, but rather relied of communications with pilots and ground observers to control traffic.

Above: A wall diagram of the entire underground complex, showing the tunnels, command and control rooms, storage and other operational areas.

Above: Part of the concrete passageways leading from the command center.

During the 1950s, the Swedish Air Force built multiple road bases to disperse their aircraft and increase survivability of squadrons. The bases consisted of stretches of main roads and highways constructed to serve as landing strips, with underground fuel tanks, communications bunkers and other necessary infrastructure. During that period Sweden had one of the most powerful air forces in Western Europe, both numerically and qualitatively, and posed a serious challenge for Soviet Air Force planning in the Baltic region.

Above: The Aeroseum displays numerous photographs of what the facility looked like in its prime. In this picture, a J 29 Tunnan fighter is wheeled out of the shelter toward the taxiway in the presence of visiting dignitaries and senior officers (circa 1950s).

Above: This is one of 146 Canadian-built North American Harvard Mk IIB (Sk 16, reg. Fv 16068) that entered service with the Swedish Air Force in 1947. A second batch of variants of the original aircraft was purchased in the early 1950s and were designated Sk 16B and Sk 16C. Although these later models were retired in the late 1950s, a few of the earlier Sk 16A kept flying until the early 1970s.

Above: The Sud Aviation SE 3130 Alouette II (Hkp 2, reg. Fv 02036, Marinen) was one of 13 to serve in the Swedish Navy between between 1959 and 1985. The helicopter was used for liaison, sea survey, rescue and also for anti-submarine warfare (ASW). The large bubble canopy gave the pilots excellent visibility. During its service, the helicopter was often deployed on navy vessels, such as the destroyer HMS Småland.

Above: This Agusta Bell 206B Jet Ranger (Hkp 6B, reg. Fv 06051) was one of 32 Jet Rangers acquired in two versions for the Swedish military. Eleven helicopters for the Army were ordered (designated HKP 6A) along with ten for the Navy (designated HKP 6B). These were all built under by Agusta in Italy. The last ones were retired from service in 2004.

Above: A German built MBB BO 105 helicopter (designated HKP 9, reg. Fv 09221 "FC-90") used in the Swedish military.

Above: Spare engines for the Viggen and Draken fighters are visible in this shot along with a Draken fighter aircraft.

Above: A Falcon missile on a stand and a Draken fighter-bomber loaded with three external fuel tanks.

Above: The tail of a Draken, showing the small rear gear, which protected the lower fuselage from hitting the ground during take-off and landing.

Above: The cockpit of a JA 35 Draken.

Above: The nose cone of the JA 37 Viggen that housed the multi-mode, pulse-Doppler Ericsson PS 46/A radar optimized for the fighter/interceptor role. The radar incorporated lookdown/shootdown capability, with a range up to 50 km, continuous-wave illumination for Skyflash missiles.

Above: The tandem wheel landing gear of the JA 37 Viggen was designed in part to better handle rough airfield operations. A similar landing gear arrangement is found on today's Russian MiG-31.

Above: The ejection seats of a Draken (foreground) and Viggen (back).

Above: This Dornier 27 (reg. 53271) first flew in the mid 1950s and was known for its ability to land and take off from short, rough fields and roads. It was used in particular for reconnaissance, transport and parachute jumping. Recently donated to the Aeroseum, it will likely be restored to flying condition in the near future.

Above: The SAAB Safir (reg. SE-AUR) is best known as a trainer aircraft and was sold to more than 20 countries. The SAAB 91A model was the early version ordered by the Swedish Air Force and was designated Tp 91 for its transport/liaison duties. Later versions included the 91B and 91C, and a total of 323 Safirs were built. Prior to being brought to the Aeroseum, this aircraft was displayed suspended in the terminal building of Goteborg’s Landvetter Airport.

Above: This aircraft is a Cessna/Reims 337G Super Skymaster (reg. SE-GMM) used by the Swedish Coast Guard (the Kustbevakningen).

Sweden has operated other hardened mountain shelters, such as F 13 Norrköping, F 18 Tullinge, F 16 Uppsala, F 8 Barkarby, Fällfors and Arboga, all of which were expanded to house Drakens and/or Viggens, and some of the development resulted from consultations with the Swiss Air Force, which operated aircraft tunnels at seven airbases during the Cold War. Although the underground facility in Goteborg is decommissioned, as are all but one in Sweden, a large number of similar facilities are still in operation around the world, including in China, Taiwan, North Korea, Switzerland (Meiringen Air Base), Saudi Arabia, and former Yugoslavia. During the NATO-Serbian conflict, the U.S. targeted aicraft tunnels in Bihac and Pristina, but the air dropped weapons were not able to damage the interior of the Pristina HAS, showing that such aircraft protection systems are still viable if located under enough rock.

Above: One of the shelter's personnel doorways at the east aircraft entrance.

Above: The underground facility required substantial infrastructure to operate and to allow personnel to live inside for extended periods in case of war. This infrastructure included among others ventilation, air filtration, electrical, fuel, oil and gas storage, fire suppression, and water purification systems.

Above: one of the two taxiways that lead aircraft from the HAS to the runway.

Above: Remnants of the air filtration and ventilation systems that were vital to the underground shelter.

Above and below: The main fuel facility for the HAS.

Additional Research Links:

Hardened Aircraft Shelters in Other Countries:
Modern HAS system (Switzerland)
HAS system in the 1990s (Switzerland)
Meiringen HAS in the 1990s (Switerland)
Former HAS in Željava Air Base, also known as Bihac Air Base (Yugoslavia)
HAS at Pristina Air Base (Yugoslavia/Kosovo)
HAS for MiG-21/F-7 fighters at Gjader (Albania)
Hualien Air Base large HAS under mountain (Taiwan)
Foluo Air Base on Hainan Island (China)

---- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) ----
Hotels: n/a (transit only)
Restaurants: n/a
Bars/Night Clubs: n/a

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Göteborg's Secret Cold War Base (Sweden Part II) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotel: Bananas Village Resort Isla Grande (8.0); Radisson Decapolis (8.5)
Restaurants: x (x); x (x); x (x)

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

The Panama Canal (Panama Part II) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: View of the Øresund (the sound) and a row of wind turbines as my flight turns to final for Runway 22 at Copenhagen Airport).

Above: View from my room of Vestebrogado Avenue and the Radhuspladsen square (City Hall square) in central Copenhagen.

Above: Nestled in the heart of Copenhagen, luxurious Radisson SAS Royal is one of the most exclusive designer hotels in Northern Europe and a great example of modernist architecture. The entire hotel from the exterior facade through to the swan and egg chairs in the lobby have been designed by the renowned Danish architect, Arne Jacobsen. Opened in 1960, the 22-floor, 275-room hotel is an architectural landmark of the Jet Age and was Copenhagen's first major skyscraper.

Above: The corner room 1611 is exceptional, offering splendid views of Copenhagen both by day and night.

Above and below: Tivoli (or Tivoli Gardens) is the famous amusement park and pleasure garden in Copenhagen, Denmark. The park opened on 1843, making it the second oldest amusement park in the world (the oldest is also in Denmark).

Above: Standing 80 m (170 feet) above ground, the "Himmelskibet" is the world's tallest carousel, giving riders in the 12 double-chairs a thrilling ride with stunning views.

Above: A retail/office building on H.C. Andersens Boulevard, facing City Hall.

Above: Copenhagen City Hall (Radhuset) in Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) in central Copenhagen. It was designed by architect Martin Nyrop and was inspired by the city hall in Siena, Italy. Construction began in 1892 and was completed in 1905.

Above: A beautiful building in Nytorv square, along the Strøget, the city's long car-free, pedestrian shopping area.

Above: In the same square is the Copenhagen Byret, the largest of Denmark's 24 municipal courts. The court serves a large part of the City of Copenhagen and Dragør and Tårnby municipalities, which total about 400,000 inhabitants.

Above: One of the many beautiful buildings facing the Højbro Plads, one of the main squares in Copenhagen. The square is located at the east end of the Strøget, the city's long car-free, pedestrian shopping area.

---- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) ----
Hotels: Radission SAS Royal***** (8.5)
Restaurants:
Bars/Night Clubs: The Old English Pub (8)

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Denmark's Historical Center remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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The City

THE DEFECTION - Researching and creating a realistic espionage scene

The following is an example of the research taken to develop a scene for one of my upcoming books. The setting is downtown Stockholm, at around noon. An important military officer from [undisclosed] intends to defect by walking a few blocks from his hotel and at a key moment "lose" his security agent (an unarmed staff diplomat). In position are two operations teams from [undisclosed country] that have been positioned to observe and facilitate the defection and enable the safe-passage of the target to a safehouse near Arland Airport. The pictures show the location of the spotters and other agents, the coordination post at the Radisson SAS Strand hotel and the intended path of the defection target. Encrpyted communications are maintained amongst each of the spotters, the team in Normmalstorg square and the command post at the Strand.

Above: This image shows the target's intended path (red dotted line); the main observation vantage (green); the spotters and their field of view (blue); the tag or "catch" team's location and field of view (yellow) at the Normmalmstorg Square (top left). The pictures below are taken along the route.

Above: North view from the main ad hoc command post, established by the operatives in room 609 of the Strand Hotel. It offers excellent views of the Nybroviken Harbor, the harbor-front street and the south end of Berzelii Park. The image shows the first two spotters and their field of view, offering uninterupted observation of the target's path (red, dotted line).

Above: Eastward view of Spotter 2 (blue) in the cobble-stone portion of Berzelii Park. The image also show the planned path of the target.

Above: Northwest view of the target's intended path (red, dotted line) along the west end of Berzelii Park, toward Berns Restaurant.

Above: Spotter 3 (blue) is located in the northeast end of Berzelii Park with near-perfect visibility of the target northward path.

Above: Berns restaurant and night club on the east side of the target's path (red dots).

Above: The target's intended northward path from the Berns restaurant to the large square known as Normmalstorg (background).

Above: Looking back south at the Berns restaurant area.

Above: At the crossing of Hamngatan street, the team leader will have made a small chalk mark (red arrrow) to indicate to the target the status of the impending plan (a horizontal line means proceed as planned, a vertical line means action is suspended for non-security reasons, and no mark at all means that the operation is off because security has been compromised).

Above: The team leader moves to the other corner of the street after marking the concrete fence post so that he can have a better vantage of the tag team in the square, the van further west on the street, the path from the Berns restaurant, and also Spotter 3 in direct line of sight.

Above: Normmalstorg square offers sufficient movement and distractions for the target to lose his security (something to the effect, "I'll just go in that store over there... I'll be right back"), at which point the tag team would assist with the following:
- tag agent 1 carries an extra coat and cap
- tag agent 2 walks behind target to help impair guard's line of sight (team leader may also assist "brush" guard -- physical contact distraction -- if he's too close). If rain, then umbrellas are ideal additional obstacles.
- when line of sight is broken, tag agent provides clothing to target, both walk out of store's auxiliary entrance and proceed 20 feet to the waiting van.

So this scene, as researched above, will find its way into my manuscript very soon.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and Ratings) -----
Hotels: Radisson SAS Strand Hotel***** (8.5)
Restaurants: Pontus (9); JT Restaurant (8.5);
Bars/Night Clubs: Club Opera (9);

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Exploring Stockholm for Scenes (Sweden Part I) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: The Palacio Legislative (Uruguay's parliamentary or capitol building).

Above: The east side of the Palacio Legislative, facing the newer parliamentary annex building.

Above: Inside the main atrium of the Palacio Legislative, with the ceremonial guard standing at attention in the center.

Uruguay has a mixed history of dictatorship and democracy, coupled with frequent overt and covert foreign intervention. This makes the country a good example of the paradox encountered in my novel, the manuscript of which is now more than half completed. So, during my visit, I met with Senator Francisco Gallinal of the National Party (aka, the Blancos) at the senator’s offices in the Palacio Legislativo (the parliament building) in Montevideo.

The building is beautiful, inside and out, but it needs some renovation. I was surprised to see that security was quite passive, with few guards and a metal detector that didn't pick up most of the metalic items I carried (cell phone, pens, change, camera, etc.) -- was it even plugged in? Anyway, it was a sharp, pleasant contrast to my visits to government offices in Washington, D.C., where security is thorough and annoying. Once inside, the similarities reappear. Hallways and offices this capitol building resembled so many others. I arrived at Senator Gallinal's office a bit late (the taxi driver took me to the parliament annex, even though I had told him the correct address). And there I was, with my notepad and about 20 questions for the Senator, who greeted me warmly in his office (which also needs some renovation and better lighting -- a result of budget cutbacks, I'm sure).

With his legal background, Senator Gallinal has been instrumental in recent legislative developments, particularly with reforms in health care, education and telecommunications. He has served in the Senate since his election in 2000 and has become a vital ally of Dr. Luis Lacalle, the National Party’s leading presidential candidate for the October 2009 elections. This makes him particularly knowledgeable in the structural/institutional development of the country, both from an economic and social aspect. However, his allegiance to the Blancos party and his constituence cannot be questioned. He sees the future of Uruguay very differently than many others I've spoken to in the country, particularly leftists.

Above: Senator Francisco Gallinal standing next to me after our hour-long meeting.

I also interviewed Alfonso Lessa, chief editor of Teledoce (Channel 12), Uruguay's leading television station, where Mr. Lessa hosts a popular weekly current events program. Mr. Lessa’s career in journalism includes being an editor at the country’s top selling paper, El Pais. He has also authored several books, including the acclaimed Estado De Guerra, relating to Uruguay’s legacy of dictatorship and the country’s political developments since the restoration of democracy.

The interview with Mr. Lessa focused a lot on politically important topics relating to Uruguay in particular, and South America in general. Of special interest to me were Lessa’s perspectives on reconciliation with Uruguay’s past dictatorship and the Tupamaro terrorist group, since the press is often a fragile pillar of democracy. It was very interesting to hear first hand the evolving roles of journalists during and after Uruguay’s dictatorship. Mr. Lessa also gave me a tour of the station and let me see the live midday newscast from the studio floor.

During my stay in Punta del Este, I had the pleasure to interview Dr. Augusto Durán Martínez, a law professor and legal advisor (Prosecretaría de Presidencia) to former Uruguayan President Luis Lacalle (who is now running in the 2009 elections). Dr. Martinez has extensive experience in international law, human rights and constitutional law. We talked at length (mostly in French, which Dr. Martinez speaks very well) about Uruguay’s political problems and issues facing the continent as a whole, among them complex matters relating to MERCOSUR, the OAS and relations with Argentina and Venezuela.

I also had an extensive discussion in Montevideo with Dr. Alphonse Max Emanueloff, one of Uruguay’s most experienced journalists and political observers. With his background as editor of the daily Ultimas Noticias and other publications, and with his insights into the turbulent years of the dictatorship, Dr. Emanueloff shared his candid views on the Uruguay’s historical left-right political struggles and the failures of the current governing leftist coalition, the Frente Amplio. He has authored numerous books on politics and international relations since receiving his doctorate in political science in the U.K., after which he moved to Uruguay and served as a foreign correspondent for various publications in South America, the U.S., Africa and Australia.

more info and pictures will be uploaded soon.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotels: Hotel Casapueblo (8.0)
Restaurants: Bungalow Suizo (8.0); SOHO (9.0); Napoleon (8.5)

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Investigating Uruguayan Politics remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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FORT GULICK AND THE SCHOOL OF THE AMERICAS

My first stop was at the former Fort Gulick, near the northern town of Colón. Fort Gulick used to be the home of the infamous School of the Americas (Esquela de las Americas), known best for its anti-communist training programs and sometimes referred to as the "school of the assassins." Today the base is a refurbished residential area and hosts the Melia Panama Canal Hotel, in the same building as the former school, where I stayed two nights for my research.

Above: I'm standing in front of an abandoned barracks at Fort Gulick, a former U.S. military base in the Panama Canal Zone, just south of Colón. Other barracks nearby have been renovated and turned into multifamily residences.

Above and below: The former Fort Gulick's main building that once served as the School of the Americas, and prior to that, as a hospital.

Located near the Quebrada Ancha portion of Lake Gatun, Fort Gulick was built to accommodate increased troop levels in the Canal Zone during the Second World War. Between 1949 and 1984, Fort Gulick became the home of the U.S. Army School of the Americas, where 29,000 military personnel, mostly from Central and South America, underwent training in various fields, including jungle warfare, counterinsurgency, interrogation techniques, and combat communications, among others. The former hospital served as the School of the Americas' headquarters building (Building #400). A U.S. Army Special Forces Group was also stationed at Fort Gulick since the 1960s.

Above and below: Inside the former Building #400, the main building of the School of the Americas, as it appears today -- as a luxury hotel (today the hotel is in need of additional renovations).

On September 7, 1977, the U.S. and Panama signed the Panama Canal Treaty that governed the gradual transition of U.S. territory in the Canal Zone to Panamanian control, which would be finalized in December 31, 1999. Under the Treaty, the U.S. retained control of various defense-related sites, including on the Pacific coast: Corozal, Albrook Air Force Station, Howard Air Force Base, Rodman Naval Station, Camp Semaphore, the Cocoll housing complex, Forts Clayton and Kobbe; and on the Atlantic/Caribbean side: Galeta Island, and Forts Davis and Sherman. There were other installations that were shared during much of that transition period, including on the Pacific side: Quarry Heights, Fort Amador, Curundu residential complex, Gorgas Army Hospital, Naval Station Rodman-Fort Amador, Summit Naval Radio Station, Chiva Chiva, the Empire Range, and, on the Atlantic/Caribbean side, Fort Gulick.

In the mid-1980s, control of a portion of Fort Gulick was turned over to the Republic of Panama, which renamed it Fuerte Espinar, and the School of the Americas was moved to Fort Benning, Georgia. The U.S. retook control of the base following its 1989 invasion of Panama. At the time of the invasion, Panama's security forces based at Fort Gulick were made up of the Octava Compañía de Infantería (Eighth Infantry Company), with 175 troops.

Above anb below: The pool and carefully manicured foliage was added when the building became a hotel.

Above: Aerial view of the former School (now the Melia Panama Canal Hotel) as I flew over the area on January 4, about ten days after staying at the place.

Above and below: Aerial views of the base.

Above: The west entrance linking Fort Gulick to Colon was controlled by this U.S. military checkpoint (Building #330). The north entrance (not pictured) led to the Boyd-Roosevelt Hwy.

Above: The former residence of the base commander and other top officers (four buildings in all in the area known as Cronkhite Loop). The homes have stunning waterfront views on the other side.

Above and below: The base's former theatre, which along with the nearby bowling alley and adjacent oversized pool, offered military personnel a luxury not available to the average Panamanian in those days.

Above: View of the main base road leading to the former School.

Above: The principal power and engineering facilities for the former base.

Above: Former military housing has been transformed into residential units, some as single-familiy and others as duplex/triplex. Most of the inhabitants are upper middle class, given the cost of these refurbished homes.

HOWARD AIR FORCE BASE

Above and two below: An aerial view of Howard Air Force base, including its aircraft hangars, maintenance buildings, housing facilities and other installations. I took the photo while flying directly above the former Rodman Naval Base.

With the conclusion of the Cold War, highlighted by the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989, the United States military was trying to redefine it's role in Latin America while attempting to preserve it's former influence. Many in Congress and in the military were crafting a new primary focus to maintain influence over the continent: counter-narcotics. It is no coincidence that at a time when U.S. voters were increasingly looking for a peace dividend, the United States launched Operation Just Cause, to invade Panama and overthrow former ally General Manuel Noriega. It has only recently become clear that part of the long-term objectives of the invasion was to legitimately initiate renegotiations of the Panama Canal Treaties. Senior U.S. officials wanted to keep their military bases from transferring to Panamanian control, as the agreement had stated. In particular, U.S. officials wanted to maintain Howard Air Force base as a center of power projection for the region, albeit publicly calling its mission an anti-narcotics campaign. However, the political establishment in Panama was able to thwart U.S. policymakers by soliciting the support of human rights groups, other Latin American political bodies and, to a lesser extent, discouraging any U.S. support from neighboring countries.

BILBOA, CLAYTON AND AMADOR AREAS

Above: The Panama Canal Administrative Building sits atop Balboa Heights, at the foot of Ancon Hill. This picture was taken during my final approach to Galebert Airport (formerly Albrook Air Force Station).

Above and below: The Panama Canal Administrative Building.

amador and causeway

in amador

ALBROOK AIR FORCE STATION

RODMAN NAVAL BASE

Above: The former Rodman Naval Base (below, right) was a key U.S. military facility until it was turned over to Panama in 1999. This picture was taken as I was flying south past the Miraflores Locks.

OTHER FACILITIES

Above and below: The Panama Canal Zone Penitentiary was operated by the U.S. military until 1999.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotel: Bananas Village Resort Isla Grande (8.0); Radisson Decapolis (8.5)
Restaurants: x (x); x (x); x (x)

All photos and text Copyright © 2009 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

America's Cold War Legacy in Central America (Panama Part I) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: Dangerous curves and steep drops.

Above: Heading to the mountain pass.

Above/below: Driving up the Tizi-n-Tichka mountain pass at an altitude of 7200 feet.

Above: A small mosque near the village of Aguim.

AIT BEN HADDOU
The village of Ait Ben Haddou is a ksar (a community of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls) along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. It is situated in Souss-Massa-Draa on a hill along the Ouarzazate River and has been used for filming scenes in various movies, including the Lawrence of Arabia (1962). Most of the town's inhabitants now live in a more modern village at the other side of the river, though a few still endure a more traditional life in the ksar. Ait Ben Haddou has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.

Above/below: Standing by and crossing the rather dry bed of the Ouarzazat River.

Above: Climbing the narrow alleys and footpaths of Ait Ben Haddou.

Above: Resting at the top of the hill overlooking the village, plains and two valleys.

Above: Camels for hire.

Above: Heading toward the pre-Saharan city of Ouarzazat.

OUARZAZATE
Ouarzazate is located about 200 km east of Marrakech and borders the Al Mansour lake. Its name comes from a Berber phrase meaning "without noise", and the city has long been a crossing point for African traders seeking to reach northern Morocco and Europe. Ouarzazate is also home to the famous Kasbah of Taourirt. The nearby Atlas Corporation Studios and have been used as sites for filming many films, including Pope Joan (to be released 2009), Prisoner of the Sun (2008), Kingdom of Heaven (2005), Astérix & Obélix (2002), Gladiator (2000), The Mummy (1999), Kundun (1997), The Last Temptation of Christ (1988), The Living Daylights (1987), The Jewel of the Nile (1985), and Lawrence of Arabia (1962), among others. Could there one day be a movie made here based on one of my novels?? Okay, okay, maybe I'm dreaming...

Above: The Kasbah of Touirirt in the old quarter of Ouarzazat.

For the first part of my Morocco journey, click here.

The Atlas Mountains and Pre-Saharan Plains (Morocco part II) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: Aerial view of the Medina from my plane (which did one missed approached before landing).

Above: The ancient walls around the Medina.

Above: One of the gates into the Medina.

THE MEDINA, THE SOUKS AND THE JEMAA EL FNA

Above: The alleys of the Medina are tight and busy.

Above/below: The vast Jemaa El Fna square.

Above: Snake charmers in the Jemaa El Fna.

Above: Selling olives, nuts and dates.

Above: Horses waiting for tourists.

RIAD CAMILIA (where I stayed)

This was a spacious, magical residence of just four rooms, managed by an efficient French expatriot. It served as an excellent "HQ" for the day-long journeys to explore the city and region.

THE BADII PALACE
[text coming soon]

Above: The Royal Palace is close to the Badii Palace, and is heavily guarded (no photos...oops!)

THE MADERSA MOSQUE
[text coming soon]

THE KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE
[text coming soon]

Above: The Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech's most famous landmark.

Above: The Koutoubia Mosque at sunset.

MODERN MARRAKECH

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----

Marrakech: A Mystical City (Morocco part I) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: Standing on a bridge connecting the Latin Quarter to Ile de la Cité.

Above: The base of the Eiffel Tower (viewed with my fisheye lens).

Above: Southeast view from the top of the Eiffel Tower.

Above: My hotel's courtyard (Holiday Inn Republique).

Above: Birds along the banks of the Seine.

Above: The Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.

Above: The lighted Champs-Elysees ending at the ferris wheel in Place de la Concorde.

Above: The Sacre-Coeur Basilica on the hilltop.

Above: Inside the Sacre-Coeur Basilica.

Above: Notre Dame Cathedral seen from the Place du Petit Pont.

Above: The Cité metro station entrance.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotels: Holiday Inn Republique****(8)
Restaurants:
Bars/Night Clubs:

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Historical Scenes in Paris remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Above: View from my hotel room on the 19th floor of the Radisson Plaza in Las Condes.

Above: The Radisson Plaza Hotel

Above:

Above: Standing with my rental Cessna 182 at Vitacura Aerodrome in northeast Santiago.

Above: Flying over a copper processing plant near Colina, a few miles north of Santiago.

Above: Flying over Las Condes, including my hotel (top center).

Above: Heading south over the eastern part of the city.

Above: Heading east into the Maipo River Valley and toward the mountains.

Above: Flying deeper into the mountains, over the Rio Colorado.

--- Summary of Travel Spots (and Ratings) ---
Hotels: Radisson Plaza Hotel***** (9)
Restaurants: Ichiban Sushi (9)
Bars/Night Clubs:

Chile's Urban and Natural Wonders remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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(above) I arrived in Philadelphia, the closest airport to the site and stayed at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

(above) View of City Hall from my room at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

(above) I'm standing in front of the USS New Jersey, which I toured for about 3 hours with a professional guide.

(above) Starboard side of battleship and dock.

(above) I'm standing in front of the ship's 16-inch 50 caliber guns (there are a total of 9 such guns on the ship).

(above) The loading mechanizm for the battleship's 16-inch gun. This one is the center gun in the forward turret.

(above) Restored officer's cabin as it appeared in the 1940s and 50s.

(above) Bedroom of the Captain's in-port cabin. The cabin also features a lounge and dining area.

(above) Captain David Tyree, the ship's commander during the period of my novel.

USS New Jersey (BB-62), ("Big J" or "Black Dragon") is one of four Iowa-class battleships built by the U.S. Navy, and was the second ship of the United States Navy to be named in honor of the U.S. state of New Jersey. During World War II, the New Jersey shelled targets on Guam and Okinawa, and screened aircraft carriers conducting raids in the Marshall islands. During the Korean War she was involved in raids up and down the North Korean coast, after which she was decommissioned in to the United States Navy reserve fleets, better known as the "mothball fleet". She was briefly reactivated in 1968 and sent to Vietnam to support U.S. troops before returning to the mothball fleet in 1969. Reactivated once more in the 1980s as part of the 600-ship Navy program, New Jersey was modernized to carry missiles and recommissioned for service. In 1983, she participated in U.S. operations during the Lebanese Civil War.

(above) New Phalanx close-in weapons system (back) and Tomahawk cruise missile launcher (foreground), which were installed in the 1980s.

(above) Modernized surveillance and targeting equipment installed during refurbishment in the 1980s.

The USS New Jersey was decommissioned for the last time in February 1991 at Bremerton, Washington where she resided until heading home to New Jersey. She was officially stricken from the Navy list on February 12,1995. On November 11, 1999, the ship arrived at the Philadelphia Naval Shipyard. Since that time, the battleship has been restored, opened and established as an educational museum and a tribute to its sailors. It opened as a museum and memorial in October 2001.

For more information on the USS New Jersey, visit the following two links: Official USS New Jersey Museum Site and WikiPedia Information

Overall, my visit was very interesting and the city, which I had visited numerous times in the 1980s, could also be featured one or more of my other novels. I'll consider that as manuscripts develop.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotel: Ritz-Carlton (9.5)
Restaurants: McCormick & Schmick's (8); Ristorante Panorama (in Pennsview Hotel)(8.5); 10 Arts (in Ritz Carlton)(7.5)
Bar/Club: Cuba Libre (9)
Rental Car: Dodge Nitro (8.5)

Researching a War Relic in New Jersey remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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I visited the Ninth Ward, the most severely hit area of the city. The pictures speak for themselves...

I also visited other sites for the second thriller in the Jonathan Brooks series. These included various sites around town, including a cemetery.

--- Summary of Travel Spots (and Ratings) ---
Hotels: Pavillion Hotel (8)
Restaurants: Arnaud's (8)
Bars/Night Clubs: Pat O'Brien's (8)

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

New Orleans Two Years After Katrina remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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(above) The south end of Ocean Drive in the South Beach neighborhood of Miami is very much alive, even at 4 a.m.

Like most authors with a background in Intel and the military, I've maintained and expanded over the years a useful network of contacts in the diplomatic, intelligence, and military communities worldwide (incl. retired or active US State Dept., DSS, Shin Bet, Mossad, FBI, NSA, SRS/SND, DRM, BPOL, and BND members and other foreign gov't officials). So when intelligence related events occur that have relevance to any of my upcoming novels (whether still being written or in the editing phase), I like to tap into these contacts for their insight. But to do so, I often have to meet in person (avoiding emails or phone calls -- quite tricky sometimes). That's the best way to keep them anonymous and get the most candid and detailed information. Like any sources for journalists and writers, they want the assurance of anonymity. This information can then be of use in developing or refining my plots or the various Intel/MIL techniques described in my fiction novels and in my non-fictional research publications.

My rendezvous took place in a couple places around town (can't name them, of course -- there are cameras everywhere these days). I stayed in the heart of South Beach, had a late night dinner at News Cafe, hung out the next day at the acclaimed Nikki Beach and relaxed and people-watched at the sidewalk cafes/restaurants of the Ocean Five Hotel and the Beacon Hotel. I also spent a little time at some interesting hangouts on Lincoln and at the Delano Hotel, one of the trendy nightspots in this part of Miami.

(above) The pool area at the Delano at night. Located on Collins Avenue in South Beach and directly on the ocean, the Delano is a world-class urban resort with a splendid outdoor area surrounded by bungalows, ultimate cushioned seating and hip music.

--- Summary of Travel Spots (and Ratings) ---
Hotels: Ocean Five Hotel (7); Beacon Hotel (7)
Restaurants: News Cafe (6); Baires Grill (7); Barolo Restaurant (8); Nikki Beach (8); Segafredo Cafe (6)
Bars/Night Clubs: Delano South Beach Hotel poolside bar (9)

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Clandestine Meeting in Miami's Famous South Beach remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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(above) The 900 meter long Bai Chay Bridge (built by Japanese engineering firms in 2006) over the Cua Luc strait is the most imposing man-made structure in the area. It is the first prestressed concrete, single-plane cable-stayed bridge in the country and has the longest such span in the world, at 435 meters. More importantly than its beauty and world record, the bridge replaced the cumbersome Bai Chay Ferry, helping speed up traffic in Halong's urban area and linking Highway 18, a key economic lifeline stretching from Hanoi to Haiphong and to the mining region of Quang Ninh.

(above and below) The full beauty of Halong Bay is hard to capture, even with these spectacular photos. The picture above is Titop Island, located about 8 km southeast of Bãi Cháy. It was named after Soviet cosmonaut Ghermann Titop, who visited the site accompanied by Ho Chi Minh in 1962. The picture below is the view from the top of Titop Island.

(above) The Sung Sot cave is impressive, with three main areas, the largest one pictured above.

(above and below) The luxurious Bhaya Cruise junk, where I stayed two nights in suite 111, a wonderful cabin at the front of the ship.

(above) One of nearly two thousand similar rock formations in Halong Bay. At low tide, as pictured, the water level descends about nine feet from its high tide level, allowing certain caves and grottos to be accessible only by day. I had the pleasure of going kayaking into some of these caves -- very exciting!

--- Summary of Travel Spots (and Ratings) ---
Hotel: Bhaya Cruise junk***** (10)
Restaurant: on board the Bhaya junk (9)

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Stunning Scenes of Halong Bay (Vietnam Part III) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Exploring Hanoi's Historical Center

(above) Hanoi's urban maze seen from my hotel room at the Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, where I stayed my first two nights in the city, before my side trip to Halong Bay.

(above) View of West Lake from the other end of my floor at the Sofitel Plaza Hanoi. The hotel stands at the juncture of the Red River, Truc Bach Lake and this small lake.

(above) Hoan Kiem Lake (meaning "Lake of the Returned Sword" or simply Sword Lake) is located in the historical center of Hanoi. A scenic trail surrounds the lake, making it a favorite place for many city residents to relax, walk, or jog. It is bordered by Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Thai To streets. At the south end of the lake is the Tortoise Tower (Thap Rua) standing on a small island. At the north end is Jade Island, home of the 18th century Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple). Jade Island is connected to the shore by the red colored wooden Huc Bridge (pictured below).

(above) Streets in the evening are as busy as they are by day. The beeping and honking of motorbikes and cars never ceases, and neither does the constant, dangerous criss-crossing flow of motorcycles. This intersection is near Hoan Kiem Lake, at the south end of the Old Quarter.

(above) A view of Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, which I visited in the morning along with a mostly Vietnamese crowd. The former Vietnamese leader (mostly known as "Uncle Ho") who died in 1969 and since then his body lies in repose in a glass coffin surrounded by uniformed honor guards in this dreary structure. The experience reminded me of Lenin's mausoleum in Moscow, which I visited several years ago. The mausoleum is located in Ba Dinh square, near where Ho Chi Minh read the country's declaration of independence in 1945, prior to the French crackdown on his movement.

(above) The city's Opera House, built by French colonists between 1901 and 1911, stands 34 meters high on the east end of Trang Tien Street (formerly Paul Bert Street), adjacent to the Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel, which opened in 1999. The music hall was reopened in 1997 after a complete restoration (after almost two decades of neglect). A great place to relax is the outdoor lounge adjacent to the Opera House (above right).

(above) The Presidential Palace is located in the central part of Hanoi. The palace was designed by Auguste Henri Vildieu and built between 1900 and 1906 to house the French Governor-General of Indochina. It has the typical features of French colonial architecture. When Vietnam became independence in 1954, Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the building for symbolic reasons, choosing instead to move to a nearby cottage. In 1958 he moved to a newly built traditional Vietnamese stilt house with carp pond a short distance from the palace. The building is painted a mustard color like most other colonial era structures in the city and is surrounded by lush gardens and a wide variety of trees, including Buddha trees and mango trees.

(above) An honor guard stands at the base of Ho Chi Minh's Stilt House, the residence and workplace of the president from 1958 to 1969. The house is a small, simple building, consistent with the leader's image of modesty and bond with his people.

(above) Adjacent to the Stilt House is a reinforced concret bunker, used as a shelter by Ho Chi Minh during the frequent U.S. bombing raids over the capital.

(above) A vintage 1953 Citroen rests in front of the five-star Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, a plush old (and fully renovated) colonial hotel that first opened in 1901. Having booked a room in the original (historical) wing of the hotel for my last night in Hanoi (right after my side trip to Halong Bay - see Part III), it was a chance to go back in time to an era when French food, art, language and culture was the dominant influence in the region.

(above) The Metropole hotel is beautifully restored and incredibly inviting, and one should not forget it's long, complicated history even after the French left in 1954. Following North Vietnam's independence, the new national government maintained it as the official hotel for visiting VIP’s. During the war against the U.S. and South Vietnam, the hotel became a base for press and diplomats, who also frequently used its bomb shelter (American bombers were obsessed with destroying the nearby Long Bien bridge and often errant bombs landed in the vicinity of the hotel and other civilian areas). Throughout the '70s and '80s, the hotel, which was named Thong Nhat (Reunification Hotel) on the renamed Ngo Quyen Street (formerly Henri Riviere Street), was rapidly deteriorating due in part to a lack of funds. It was only in the mid-1990s that the Metropole got its new name and extensive facelift. Today, this 232-room luxury hotel with two restaurants, three bars, a swimming pool and health club, remains the most opulent address in the city.

(above) Among the important sites in Hanoi is the Temple of Literature, the site of the oldest university in country (dating back to the 11th century). The stone tablets commemorate old scholars who attended the institution.

Visit to the Co Loa Citadel

One site that was a priority to visit was the ancient Citadel at Co Loa, located in a village of the same name about an hour by car northeast of Hanoi. The citadel is the setting for the main scene of my novel's prologue (an unusually abstract prologue, for that matter). It was important to see this place first hand, and even more so because there was very little literature describing the place and even fewer pictures on the Internet or in books. So, I headed there in the afternoon of my first full day in Hanoi. I hired the same driver that had given me the city tour in the morning.

(above) On the way to Co Loa, my driver took me to the Long Bien Bridge that crosses the Red River. This 2,500 meter cantilever bridge was built in 1903 by the French architect Gustave Eiffel. Before the country’s independence in 1954, it was called the Doumer Bridge (Paul Doumer was the Governor-General of French Indochina). At the time, it was one of the longest bridges in Asia. During the Vietnam War the bridge was bombed regularly since it was the only one across the Red River and connected Hanoi to the main port of Haiphong to the east. Today it is used by motorbikes and trains only. Car traffic is diverted to the nearby Chuong Duong Bridge (which my driver took) and other newer bridges.

(above) The Citadel at Co Loa was first built during the end of the Hồng Bàng Dynasty. The fortress forms a spiral-shaped complex of the then new capital. The site consists of two outer sets of ramparts (the outermost perimeter is 8 km) and an inner citadel. Recent excavations have revealed unique treasures, including pottery, drums, weapons and other rare artefacts.

Back to Hanoi

(above and two below) There are so many things to see in the Old Quarter, and the best way to experience this vibrant part of the city is by cyclo.

(above) Saint Joseph Cathedral, opened in 1886, is another historic site in Hanoi. This church has the largest Catholic congregation in northern Vietnam (just under 8% of the population are Catholics).

(above) The Hoa Lo Prison (later nicknamed by Americans as the "Hanoi Hilton"), was a prison used by the French colonial administration in Indochina for political prisoners and later by North Vietnam for prisoners of wars, many of them U.S. pilots shot down during bombing raids of Hanoi. The prison was built in Hanoi by the French at the end of the 19th Century (the French called the prison Maison Centrale) and is located near Hanoi's French Quarter. Torture was often used by the French at this facility. It was progressively expanded during the early 1900s and by the fall of French rule in 1954, the prison held more than 2000 prisoners mostly in horrible condition. Many of Communist North Vietnam’s new leaders had spent time in the prison prior to independence from the French. During the Vietnam War, the first U.S. prisoner was a pilot shot down in August 1964. Conditions were tough for U.S. prisoners, many of whom have since described torture and degrading treatment during their captivity. Navy pilot John McCain, who later became Senator and is the 2008 presumptive presidential nominee, spent most of his nearly six years of captivity at Hoa Loa prison after he was shot down in 1967. Now a museum, only part of the prison’s structure exists today after much of it was demolished during mid-1990s to make way for a high-rise. An interesting BBC article last week covered an interview with the prison’s then commander, Tran Trong Duyet, who has since retired to the coastal city of Haiphong. The most shocking claims he were that the prisoners, John McCain in particular, were not tortured during their captivity.

(above) The Vietbank (formerly the Banque d'Indochine), an art deco building.

(above) Hanoi's Military Museum is located on Dien Bien Phu Street, near theLenin Monument and adjacent to the vast complex of red-roofed buildings that form the country's Ministry of Defense Headquarters (below).

(above) Built in 1812 by Emperor Gia Long, the Flag Tower, is all that is left of an ancient citadel, which was destroyed by the French forces in 1895 (in French, "La Tour de Drapeau"). With a height of just over 33 meters, the Flag Tower served as a communications center and observation post for the French and symbolized the colonial dominance over the city. Today, the it sits on the grounds of the Military Museum, near the Lenin Monument and a host of other government buildings.

(above) Among the military hardware on display is the Soviet built SA-2 surface-to-air missile that was responsible for downing a large number of U.S. military aircraft during the Second Vietnam War.

(above) As an author, I'm naturally curious about bookstores in the places I visit. This store is on the busy Trang Tien street, a few blocks from the Opera House. Of course, they are great sources of information when researching a place, but -- if my future book does well -- the stores could be good book signing venues at a later date.

I spent two nights in Hanoi at first, and then headed to a three day side trip to Halong Bay, about three hours east of the capital. (see part III of my Vietnam blog). I then returned to Hanoi for one more day/night to get pampered at the Sofitel Metropole and see a few more sites before leaving the next day (after a wonderful morning massage at the hotel) for HCMC.

Leaving Hanoi

I headed to the airport for my flight back to HCMC. Hanoi left a wonderful impression on me and was a tremendous help for my research.

(above) A series of 17 fighter aircraft shelters are located on an apron adjacent to the northwest end of Runway 11L/29R at Hanoi's Noi Bai Airport (located 28 miles (45 km) north of downtown Hanoi). The shelters house Vietnam Air Force MiG-21 fighter jets. Although the MiG-21 is an old design, the country still operates about 100 such aircraft, many of them maintained with the assistance of India, Ukraine, and Bulgaria. For additional information about Vietnam's recent security and defense arrangements, read the recent article by Carlyle Thayer (unaffiliated with this blog).

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotels: Sofitel Plaza Hanoi (9); Sofitel Metropole (10)
Restaurants: Au Lac Cafe (8); Brasserie Westlake in Sofitel Plaza (9); Le Beaulieu Restaurant in Metropole (10)

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Hanoi's Legacy of War and Colonialism (Vietnam Part II) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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What first struck me about Ho Chi Minh City is the traffic, or more precisely, the chaos of motorbikes and cars filling every inch of asphalt on the mostly narrow streets of this city of eight million inhabitants. There are no rules it seems. Bikes flow like water through the path of least resistance around other bikes, cars, pedestrians and other obstacles. Yikes!

(above) Congestion of motorbikes, still vastly outnumbering cars.

(above) The center of HCMC is quite modern, with popular restaurants and shops, as well as rooftop bars with great views, including the Saigon Saigon bar at the Caravelle Hotel, the one at the Rex Hotel, and my favorite at the Majestic Hotel (where I also stayed on my return from Hanoi).

(above) People carry almost anything on their scooters, including furniture, infants, large produce bags, bundles of clothing, you name it.

(above) The War Remnants Museum has many American military hardware on display, as well as gruesome pictures of war attricities.

(above) I explored the relics of war on the grounds of the Ho Chi Minh City Museum (Viện bảo tàng Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh), a key historical site situated at the corner of Lý Tự Trọng street and Nam Kỳ khởi Nghĩa street. Called Gia Long Palace before the Fall of Saigon, it was the office of President of the Republic of Vietnam, Ngô Đình Diệm, when he returned to Vietnam following the 1954 Geneva Conference (though he was murdered in a coup d'etat in November 1963). His successors continued to work there until the Independence Palace (since 1975, the Reunification Hall) was completed. It has been a museum since the fall of South Vietnam. And given that the day I visited it was Sunday, the place was full of newlyweds getting their picture taken (why on earth here??).

(above) The Reunification Palace (Dinh Thống Nhất), formerly known as Independence Palace (Dinh Độc Lập), was built on the site of the former Norodom Palace and is a key historic landmark. Designed by architect Ngo Viet Thu as the residence of the President of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War (note that the Vietnamese refer to the conflict as the "American War"). The building is most notable for its symbolic role in the fall of Saigon in April 1975, when NVA tanks crashed through its gates and the victorious communist troops flew the flag on the balcony.

(above) In town you can also find the venerable cyclos (called "pouse pouse" in the French days). There are fewer in HCMC than in Hanoi because of police restrictions aimed at reducing traffic congestion. This picture was taken on the north entrance of the large Ben Thang market.

----- Travel Essentials Summary (and ratings) -----
Hotels: Sofitel Plaza Saigon (8.5); Hotel Majestic (8)
Restaurants: __________ ( );

All photos and text Copyright © 2008 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Discovering Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam Part I) remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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(above) View of north-central Mexico City, including Chapultepec park.

(above) View of Metro line crossing Avenida 24 de Abril as plane lines up for final.

(above) Avenida Francisco I Madero in downtown Mexico City.

(above) The Metropolitan Cathedral facing the Zocalo.

(above) Julio Verne street in Polanco has quaint shops and restaurants.

(above) View from my room at the W Hotel in Polanco

The city offers an amazing urban assortment of sites for my sequel, and perhaps for one or more other books in the pipeline. I also visited the archeological museum and went to the artsy market at San Angel.

(above) Artwork for sale in San Angel's market square.

All photos and text Copyright © 2007 A.C. Frieden. No reproduction permitted without prior written approval by A.C. Frieden. For reproduction rights and higher resolution images, send email to afrieden[at]avendiapublishing.com.

Mexico City's Hot Spots remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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(above) I am holding a copy of my first novel on the deck of my casita, in front of one Mexico's most striking panoramas.
(below) Not only are the private casitas and pools at Las Brisas a perfect place to write novels, they are also great spots to include in stories, as was the case for my first novel.

This was my sixth trip to Acapulco (each time at the Las Brisas resort) but my first since Canvas Sunsets Never Fade was published in 2004. I had the pleasure of again meeting several members of the resort’s management and donating copies of his book. I'm also planning to a sequel, which for nostalgic reasons will include scenes from Acapulco.

For details, read the press release.

Return to Acapulco on the Trail of My First Novel remains copyright of the author AC Frieden, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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